Fast Fasion
What Is Fast Fashion?
“The rapid mass production of cheap clothing in response to the latest catwalk and high-street fashion trends.”
It goes beyond the usual output of seasonal trends, with some brands releasing new trends several times in a week. It’s low cost, trendy and often seen as ‘disposable’. Given its affordability, consumers are increasingly purchasing clothes on impulse, feeling the pressure to update their wardrobes more often than ever to keep up with the latest styles. This has resulted in a 400% increase in the global consumption of new clothing in the last 20 years, with global consumption reaching 80 billion clothing items every year. However, the production of fashion at such a pace is having detrimental impacts on our environment. The main issues arising from fast fashion production and consumption can broadly be grouped into three key topics, discussed in more detail below.
What Are The Issues?
336,000 tonnes of clothing ends up in UK landfill sites every year.
70 million barrels of oil are used each year to make the world’s polyester fibre, the most commonly used fibre in our clothing.
An average person buys 60% more items of clothing compared to 15 years ago, which is kept for half as long.
The clothing produced in the fast fashion industry is unsustainable and seldom biodegradable. Items are often made of plastic and are a huge contributor to landfill waste, where it can take up to 80 years for them to break down. Unfortunately, the fast fashion industry has created a ‘throwaway nature’ when it comes to clothing, as consumers strive to keep up with rapidly changing styles and knowledge of the impact of throwing away our old clothes is limited. Garments are generally cheap and of low quality, with many thrown away before they are worn out. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), in 2018, approximately 17 million tonnes of textile waste was generated and only 15% of this was recycled. Research also suggests that people feel embarrassed to wear an outfit to a special occasion more than once and many would not wear an outfit again if they had already posted it on their social media pages. These views were more common in younger generations, but further amplify the throwaway nature of the fast fashion industry.
Take a look at our Waste Management month for more information on the impact of not managing our waste correctly.
Water Use & Quality
70% of the world’s wastewater is produced by the fast fashion industry.
It takes 700 gallons of water to make one cotton shirt.
Microfibers from synthetic clothing contribute up to 35% of the plastic pollution in our oceans.
The fast fashion industry has also been found to have a significant impact on water use and quality. The industry consumes vast volumes of water year on year, primarily for the purpose of cultivating cotton, but also for other water intensive aspects of the textile production process. In 2017, the industry consumed approximately 79 billion cubic meters of water, the equivalent of 32 million Olympic-sized swimming pools, a figure that is projected to increase by as much as 50% by 2030.
The industry is also responsible for water contamination in countries where garments are produced. Untreated wastewater, containing substances such as mercury and lead, from textile factories, is frequently dumped into waterways and rivers. These are toxic for the aquatic life which inhabit these environments and are harmful to communities living close to the river banks. Water is also contaminated by the fertilisers often used to help cotton production. The synthetic fabrics that clothes are made of often contain microplastics. When we wash our clothes, or if they are sitting in a landfill and are subject to rainfall, these tiny shreds of plastic are flushed into wastewater systems and eventually make their way out into the ocean. Research has suggested that, on average, more than 1,900 fibres can be shed by a synthetic clothing garment during just a single trip through the washing machine, further contributing to the catastrophic issues our oceans are facing.
Take a look at our Health of the Oceans month for more information on the impact of microplastics.
Carbon Emissions
The fashion industry is the second most polluting industry on the planet (only behind oil).
It is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions each year.
In 2018, the industry generated more greenhouse gases than France, Germany and the UK combined.
The production, manufacture and transportation of garments in the fashion industry results in the generation of a vast amount of greenhouse gases. It’s annual CO2 emissions equate to more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined and forecasts suggest that if this does not change, then by 2050 then the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget. The cheap, synthetic fibers that fast fashion garments are made from are made from fossil fuels and emit gases like nitrous oxide, which are significantly more damaging than carbon dioxide. Polyester production in particular, releases up to three times more carbon than cotton. Many clothes are also produced in countries that rely heavily on coal, the ‘dirtiest’ energy supply, for power, such as China, Bangladesh and India. Unfortunately, the figures are stark; it has been predicted that the industry must reduce its annual emissions by half within the next ten years, if it is to reach targets set by the 2015 Paris Climate Agreement, limiting global temperature increase to no more than 1.5 °C.
However, fast fashion brands are starting to implement initiatives intended to combat these issues and there are actions we can take to limit our environmental impact when we are thinking about purchasing new clothes.
Our Tip
You can use a free website to check on the sustainability of your favourite clothing brands. Check before you buy!
Why Is Fast Fashion The Cheap Option?
Despite many consumers thinking it is important to purchase sustainable fashion (McKinsey survey, 67%), only a small percentage (McKinsey survey, less than a third) are willing to pay more for eco products.
So why is fast fashion the cheap option?
Labour Costs
The Clean Clothes Campaign states that ‘the fashion industry is built on poverty wages and sweatshop conditions, driven by an industry practice of pushing for the lowest price and shortest lead times.’ Whereas, ethical fashion companies pay fair wages at every stage of the production line, pushing up the cost of the items they produce.
Material Costs
Sustainable clothes are made from materials that are made to last and are better for the environment, like organic cotton, which are much more expensive to produce. The product of organic materials means not using chemical pesticides and synthetic fertilisers, which ironically means adding to the cost of production. By not using chemicals, there is a greater reliance on people to take the place of these toxins which drives up the price of manufacturer.
Economies Of Scale
Fast fashion applies the model of quantity over quality, producing vast volumes of clothes in short time scales. By having high levels of product, core costs such as machinery and rent are spread over more items, which decreases the amount it costs to produce each unit. Sustainable clothes are typically produced on a small scale where each unit has to absorb more of the core costs, making them more expensive to produce.
Supply Chain
Fast fashion manufacturers usually sell their items to a wholesaler, who then sells them on to a distributor, who will then sell them to the public. The bonus of this model is that the manufacturer offloads its units without having to worry about any of the costs associated with the retail of the products. Sustainable fashion producers are much more likely to sell direct-to-consumer, meaning they have to manage and pay for the whole supply chain. So, even though they don’t have to pay a cut to a wholesaler, the whole process from production to sales costs the company more.
Our Tip
Charity shops often have nearly new clothes at very affordable prices. You will be helping to cut down on needless waste and every purchase is supporting a good cause.
How You Can Help
There are many ways you can help to reduce the effects fast fashion has on our planet.
Recycle:
Did you know that 95% of clothing can be recycled or upcycled? By taking your old clothes to your local waste disposal facility, or clothing bank, you can help reduce the amount that goes into landfill or is burnt.
Reuse:
By reusing your clothes you can also reduce their carbon footprint. Why not patch them up or make them into something new? Old cotton clothes can be made into wax strips, old jeans can be woven into rugs, and old jumpers can be turned into leg warmers. Why not have a go at repurposing some of your old clothes into new fashion statements.
Even if your clothes are past the point of being wearable, don’t consider them unusable. They can still be given a new lease of life as cleaning cloths, face masks, furniture covers and even blankets.
Resell:
Buying second-hand clothing, and selling on second-hand sites, can also be a great way to reduce the impact of your clothes, as well as decluttering or freshen up your wardrobe at the same time.
Rentals:
Instead of buying that item that you are only going to wear once, why not rent instead. By renting you are helping to reduce over consumption, as well as adding variety to your wardrobe without the cost to the environment.
Shop Smart:
Why not consider not purchasing fast fashion clothing in the first place. By buying from an eco or sustainable brand you can ensure that not only will your clothes be more likely to last, but they will also be manufactured, produced and sold in a way that is more ethical. Look out for companies that are registered as B Corps, or have sustainability, or fair trade accreditation and join the growing number of people who are turning to sustainable fashion.
The great advantage of sustainable fashion is that the items produced are much more durable. This means they can be part of a circular economy, unlike fast fashion. With clothes lasting for longer, there are more opportunities for them to have a new lease of life when people want to change their wardrobe. Not only does this mean that they have less environmental impact, resales offer an affordable option to people who could not purchase these items new.
What Is The Difference Between Ethical And Sustainable Fashion
Ethical Fashion: concerns the moral nature of the manufacturing process. For a company to be an ethical fashion producer it needs to ensure each part of the supply chain receives fair and equal treatment.
Sustainable Fashion: concerns the nature of the clothes themselves. Items are created in a way that is designed to reduce their impact on the planet. This can mean that they are made from more durable materials that are designed to last. It can also mean that the company supports a circular economy.
Sustainable fashion clothes can be made from a variety of items including; post-consumer PET bottles, recycled scrap tires, oyster shells and fish scales.
Our Tip
Visit this website to help you find the most ethical and sustainable brands and companies to buy your clothes and other products from.
Useful Symbols
Global Organic Textile Standard
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed by leading standard setters to define world-wide recognised requirements for organic textiles. From the harvesting of the raw materials, environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling, textiles certified to GOTS provide a credible assurance to the consumer.
The Ethical Company Organisation
Since 2001 the Ethical Company Organisation has provided the world’s leading clear and comparative ethical information on thousands of companies and brands to individuals, NGOs, ethical companies and ethical investors. We compare hundreds of companies’ ethical and corporate social responsibility records in relation to up to 15 different ethical criteria under the 3 general headings of Environment, Animals and People.
Smart Consensus Sustainable Product Standards
Sustainable Materials Rating Technology or SMaRT, is the consensus sustainable products standard and label for building products, fabric, apparel, textile & flooring, covering over 80% of the world’s products with environmental, social, & economic criteria.
Certified B Corporations
Certified B Corps are a new kind of business that balances purpose and profit. They are legally required to consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment. This is a community of leaders, driving a global movement of people using businesses as a force for good.
Useful Links & Further Information
Click the title below for further information.
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A searchable database of fashion brands / retailers who have been rated by looking at their impact on people, animals and the planet.
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There are many problems associated with the fast fashion industry from supply chain issues to high greenhouse gas emissions. Ethical Consumer’s fashion and clothing guides help you find the most ethical and sustainable brands and companies.
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Helpful tips on how we can reduce our fashion environmental footprint.
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These seven fashion apps will help you curate a sustainable wardrobe.